Chef Makoto Tokuyama’s award-winning restaurant, Cocoro, is more than a place to eat; it is homage to the influences of Makoto’s childhood in rural Japan. Here, you feed not only the stomach and the senses, but ‘cocoro’ – the heart and soul.
Makoto arrived in New Zealand from Japan in 2002, lured, he says, by the “beautiful natural environment.” After working in a number of well-established Auckland restaurants, he made the leap to opening his own restaurant in 2011. Cocoro rapidly became, and has remained, a feature on many people’s ‘must-try’ lists ever since
SERVING UP THE PERFECT ENCOUNTER
In the serene setting of a Zen Buddhist temple in Japan, Makoto discovered the joy of communal meals and the importance of fresh, high-quality ingredients. Today, he brings this philosophy to Cocoro, his acclaimed Auckland restaurant, where every dish is crafted with care and designed for sharing. “We aim to create unique dining experiences filled with heart and soul,” Makoto explains, embodying the Japanese principle of ichigo ichie—”one opportunity, one encounter.”
Since opening in 2011, Cocoro has gained a reputation for its innovative degustation menu, earning accolades like Three Hats and Restaurant of the Year in the 2018 Cuisine Good Food Awards. Makoto’s dedication to culinary excellence has also made him a Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassador for New Zealand.
CHAWANMUSHI RECIPE
Chawanmushi is a Japanese savoury steamed egg custard. “Chawan” means tea cup or rice bowl, and “mushi” means steaming in Japanese.
INGREDIENTS • 3 eggs • 2 cup dashi soup stock • 1/2 tsp salt • 1 tsp light soy sauce • 1 tsp mirin • 1 tsp sake • Your favourite items
(e.g. black foot paua, whitebait, prawn, chicken, mushroom etc.)
- Decoration items (e.g. Buckwheat puff)
METHOD
Lightly beat eggs in a large bowl. Try not to bubble the eggs.
Mix cool ichiban dashi soup stock, light soy sauce, salt, sake, and mirin in another bowl. Add the dashi mixture in the egg mixture gradually. Strain the egg mixture.
Put your favorite item in Chawanmushi cups. Fill each cup to third-fourths full with the egg mixture. Cover the cups.
Preheat a steamer on high heat. Turn down the heat to low and carefully place cups in the steamer. Steam for a few minutes on high heat. Turn down the heat to low and steam for about 10-15 minutes, or until done.
Poke a bamboo stick in the Chawanmushi and if clear soup comes out, it’s done.
Place any decoration (I recommend adding something with a crunchy texture) items on top of Chawanmushi.
AN INFUSION OF NATURE
Makoto’s culinary style reflects his upbringing and connection to nature. His signature sashimi platter features up to 30 types of fresh fish, hand-selected and prepared with precision. Living in Auckland allows him to enjoy the beaches with his family, reinforcing his belief in the importance of fresh, local ingredients in creating authentic Japanese cuisine.
KITCHEN DESIGN – THE PRECISION BEHIND THE PLATE
After years of working in kitchens worldwide, Makoto designed Cocoro’s kitchen to blend traditional tools with modern technology. Equipped with a Japanese hibachi grill and a Convotherm mini combi-steamer, the kitchen supports his pursuit of culinary perfection. “Every second matters in our work,” he notes, emphasizing the need for an efficient layout to maintain precision in his dishes.
FEEDING THE TASTE EVOLUTION
As New Zealand’s culinary scene evolves, so does Makoto’s vision. He recently partnered with Jason Lee to open Waku Waku, a modern Japanese restaurant that offers innovative cuisine with a creative twist. “I want to keep working with top-quality ingredients and see happy customers enjoying what we create,” he shares, illustrating his unwavering commitment to excellence and innovation in the dining experience.
